Still hasn't been painted so fingers crossed but seems to stick like crazy and it's a quick, easy, and economical solution. This has, unsurpringly, cracked really badly. For the pictured repair, the contractor screwed 1/2' sheetrock directly to the furring strips, then filled in the trench level with the plaster using USG 'Ultra Lightweight' premix. Sanded with 80 grit but barely made a dent in it - had no primer so I sprayed it with my can of 3M adhesive that I use for plastic bead and quickly coated with hot mud then finished. For context: our house is from 1964 and has plaster-over-gyprock walls that are just shy of an inch thick in most places. As air drying compounds are typically applied quite thin, shrinkage does not tend to detract from the overall joint shape. Job 3: Tying into existing wall - 12ft vertical joint - glossy paint. In general, air drying compounds shrink far more than plaster based compounds generally between 15-25. Waited the extra day then patched everything up and now it's looking bomber - extra work up front but would have been call backs otherwise for sure and he was more than happy knowing it was done right. ![]() He was understanding and actually remembered how crappy the paint was when he did it 15 years ago. ![]() I made the call that the HO needed to scrape it all off, sand, and prime. When I rescrewed and cleaned up the poped nails the paint peeled off easily. Job 2: Nail pops and exhaust fan patch in bathroom with glossy enamel paint. If you live in a very dry area it would take a long time to fail but if you live in a very moist location it wont be long until failure starts. Given that the first one peeled so easily I should have sanded and primed first. Also the Plaster can & will absorb moisture at a greater rate than the joint compound can with stand which will cause it to delaminate from the plaster surface. The one that held was solid right through. But joint compound needs enough time to dry on plaster. Mesh tape, sandpaper and skim coating can be applied to blend joint compounds on plaster surfaces. It is applied to hide cracks and holes on plaster walls and plasterboards. You didnt ask about cracks or deep repairs down to the lath but for that you would use real old school 2-coat plaster (obtainable from a specialty store, not big box)) with EZ-Sand as the top coat. Joint compound is usable on plaster walls due to its adhesiveness. After skimming, the one that peeled blistered a little and required touching up after painting. Used mostly EZ-Sand 90 for surface skim coat kinds of jobs and Quikrete Bonding Adhesive (Plaster-weld or anything similar). Sprayed them both down before removing - one peeled right off and the other held fast and only the "tits" came off. Job 1: Skim coated 2 textured ceilings(same house). Have done a couple of jobs recently that illustrate this problem and what can happen.
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